Interfacing plays a supporting role in almost every garment. It is the inner layer of fabric used to shape and support details like collars, cuffs, waistbands, pockets, lapels and buttonholes. Interfacing adds body to garments and helps keep them crisp through repeated washings and wearings.
Your sewing pattern may require more than one kind of interfacing. Choose interfacing according to the weight of the sewing fashion fabric, the kind of shaping required and the way the garment will be cleaned. Usually, the interfacing should be the same weight or lighter than the fabric. Drape two layers of the fabric and the interfacing together to see if they hang well. Areas such as collars and cuffs usually need stiffer interfacing. Yet, for sheer fabrics, another piece of the sewing fabric may be the best interfacing.
Interfacings come in woven or nonwoven fabrics. Woven interfacing has a lengthwise and crosswise grain. It must be cut with the same grain as the part of the garment to be interfaced. Nonwoven interfacing is made by bonding fibers together; it has no grain. Stable nonwovens can be cut in any direction and will not ravel. Stretch nonwovens have crosswise stretch, most effective for knits.
All interfacings are available in sew in and fusible. Sew-in must be pinned or basted, and is ultimately held in place by the machine stitching. Fusibles have a coating on one side which, when steam-pressed, melts and fuses the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Fusibles come in plastic wrappers which have directions for applying. Follow them exactly, since each fusible is different. When applying fusibles, use a damp press cloth to protect the iron and provide extra steam.
Submitted by: Loretta Crowder
© 2011, Loretta. All rights reserved.
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